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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.